Alsace beyond the postcard villages: where to go
Alsace sits in the northeast of France, along the borders with Germany and Switzerland. It is a region shaped by shifting borders and many influences. You find it in the architecture, in the landscape, and on your plate.
Planning a stay here requires some focus. These 15 highlights offer a clear starting point, practical, well-chosen, and enough to structure a trip that stays with you. © photo: Travel Magazine Belgium
Updated May 2026
Discovering Colmar
Colmar is defined by its well-preserved architecture, narrow streets, and a strong cultural identity. It is compact, easy to navigate, and rewards a slower pace.
The appeal is broad, but not generic: history, art, and everyday life sit close together. These cultural highlights give structure to a visit. Each one has been experienced and assessed on site.
© photo: Travel Magazine Belgium
The Unterlinden Museum
Home to an impressive collection of art and artifacts from the Middle Ages to the present day, housed in a former convent that dates back to the 13th century. One of my favourite museums.
Maison des Têtes
A beautifully preserved Renaissance-era mansion that features intricate carvings and sculptures on its facade, now home to a restaurant and five star Relais & Chateaux hotel.
Old town
Walk the narrow streets at a steady pace. Take in the atmosphere and the rhythm of the town, shaped by its half-timbered houses and consistent architectural style.
Saint-Martin Collegiate Church
A Gothic masterpiece with stained-glass windows and fantastic architecture.
Colmar boat tour
A boat tour cuts through the centre of Colmar, passing Petite Venise and the Hansi Museum. The route takes about an hour and offers a different perspective on the town: quieter, more structured, and easier.
During our visit, the town was crowded. That pressure is part of Colmar’s reality. We stepped away, found a table, and kept it simple with a flammkuchen.
Home of choucroute and tarte flambée
One of the most distinctive aspects of Alsace is its cuisine, which is heavily influenced by its German and French heritage. Alsatian food is hearty and comforting, with a focus on local, seasonal ingredients.
A taste of tradition
Alsatian cuisine values depth and weight over precision.
Choucroute garnie sets the tone, a combination of sauerkraut, potatoes, and different cuts of meat, including sausages and bacon.
Tarte flambée offers a lighter counterpoint. A thin base, topped with crème fraîche, onions, and bacon, simple in structure, but very good when done well.
Baking holds its own place. Kougelhopf, with raisins and almonds, appears across the region, while bredele, small biscuits in different variations, reflect a more domestic, seasonal side of Alsatian food culture.
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Between France and Germany
Alsace has a rich and complex history that has been shaped by its strategic location and shifting political borders.
The region has been inhabited since prehistoric times and has been ruled by a variety of groups, including the Romans, Franks, and the Holy Roman Empire. In the late Middle Ages, the region became part of the Duchy of Alsace, which was ruled by the Habsburgs.
A region with a rich history
During the 17th and 18th centuries, Alsace was at the center of the Thirty Years' War and the Franco-Dutch War, which saw the region change hands several times between France and the Holy Roman Empire. In the late 19th century, Alsace was annexed by Germany as part of the Treaty of Frankfurt, and it remained under German control until the end of World War I.
After World War I, Alsace was returned to France, but its German heritage remained a key part of its identity. Today, the region is known for its unique blend of French and German culture and its distinctive Alsatian dialect.
World-renowned wines
Alsace is defined as much by its landscape as by its towns. Hills, forests and the Vosges Mountains form a clear western boundary and give the region structure.
The Alsace Wine Route brings that landscape together in a single line. It runs through vineyards and small villages, with regular stops at wineries and tasting rooms. It is the most direct way to understand the region’s wine culture, provided you approach it with some discipline rather than trying to cover it all at once.
Parc Naturel Régional des Vosges du Nord
Another must-see destination in Alsace is the Parc Naturel Régional des Vosges du Nord, a nature reserve that covers over 100.000 hectares of forests, meadows, and wetlands. The park is home to a variety of wildlife, like deer, wild boar, and foxes, and it offers a range of outdoor activities such as hiking, cycling, and kayaking.
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Stay.
Hotel De La Couronne
We stayed at the Hotel De La Couronne in the center of Riquewihr. The hotel's three half-timbered buildings, painted in bright colors, create an Alsatian charm that is difficult to find elsewhere. The hotel dates back to the 16th century, and although there is no lift, the spiral stone staircase, built in 1480, leading to the rooms, is stunning.
Nothing but church bells
The 41 rooms are spread across the yellow, orange and blue houses. The design is consistent and well maintained, though it leans towards safe rather than distinctive.
Sleep quality is a clear strength. The bedding is comfortable and supports a restful night. That said, the setting is not entirely silent. Church bells are audible and may interrupt lighter sleepers. Whether this adds atmosphere or becomes a nuisance will depend on your tolerance.
The wider environment remains calm, which helps. Room choice matters. The smaller categories feel tight, so it is worth moving up to a High Comfort Room or higher for a more balanced stay.
The cellar bar is compact and functional. It covers the basics: Alsace wines, local beers, soft drinks, but it lacks character and is not a destination in its own.
The terrace is a more convincing asset. Outdoor space in Riquewihr is limited, so a sunny terrace adds practical value.
Parking is handled efficiently. On-site spaces, combined with charging facilities for electric vehicles, are a clear advantage in a village where access is otherwise constrained.
Charming and convenient
Breakfast is broad enough to cover most preferences. The products are of decent quality, but the setting works against it. The room feels dark, and around 09.00 it becomes crowded.
Service is more uneven. The owners are approachable, yet the level of engagement remains limited. In a smaller hotel, where a more personal connection is expected, that distance becomes noticeable.
A well located Alsace base
If you are looking for a charming and convenient place to stay in the heart of Riquewihr, Hotel De La Couronne is a good choice. The hotel's historic and unique features, clean and well-maintained rooms make it a perfect base for exploring the region.
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Hotel De La Couronne
5 Rue de la Couronne, 68340 Riquewihr
We like to give the spoiled traveller a wider selection of hotels in Alsace. Here are our top addresses:
La Maison des Têtes - Relais & Châteaux
At the centre of Colmar, the hotel "La Maison des Têtes" welcomes you in an exceptional building, a protected monument. This Relais & Châteaux hotel offers 21 rooms, each unique.
Website
Le Chambard · Hôtel Restaurants Spa
Located at the entrance to Kaysersberg in a converted 18th-century mansion, this luxurious hotel welcomes you in a happy, warm and comfortable setting.
Website
Qualys-Hôtel Val-Vignes
On the wine route, at the foot of the Haut-Koenigsbourg castle, the Val-Vignes hotel is the ideal place for a romantic stay in a historical setting. This character building houses spacious, well-equipped rooms open onto the Alsatian vineyards.
Website
Dine:
Restaurant La Grappe D'Or
We had the pleasure of dining at Restaurant La Grappe D'Or in Riquewihr center and I must say, it was a great experience. The restaurant has a charming and rustic atmosphere that captures the essence of Alsace.
A dining experience full of surprises.
One of the highlights of our evening was discovering the cellar serving as a second dining room. The décor, including paintings by local artists and pottery from Betschdorf, along with the traditional Alsatian Kacheloffe, add to the cellar's cozy ambiance.
Food at Michelin level
What defines La Grappe d’Or is the consistency of its kitchen and the control in the dining room. Service is led with confidence, personal without becoming informal. The owner plays a visible role, guiding choices with clarity and a good sense of the menu.
The cooking stays close to the region. Dishes such as duck and rabbit are handled with care, and the cheese selection, including a well-chosen Munster, reinforces that local focus.
A mention in the Michelin Guide feels justified. Not for innovation, but for reliability and execution.
(Michelin rating: €€).
Dining well in Riquewihr
La Grappe d’Or is a good dining option in Riquewihr, particularly if you want a setting that reflects the village. The choice between a cellar space and a more decorated dining room adds flexibility.
The kitchen focuses on local dishes and executes them with consistency. It is not a destination restaurant, but it stands above much of the tourist-driven offer in the area and is worth considering.
photo: © Travel Magazine Belgium
Restaurant LA GRAPPE D’OR
1, rue des Ecuries Seigneuriales
68340 Riquewihr
Dine:
La Vieille Forge
We dined at La Vieille Forge in Kayserberg, a restaurant that opened its doors in 1986 in a charming 15th-century house.
Contemporary design, high wine prices
The restaurant was originally run by Rémy Gutleben and his wife, and is now in the hands of their daughter, Laurine, who trained in established kitchens. That transition is visible in the approach, more structured, with a clearer contemporary direction.
Service is well handled, attentive and correct without excess. The dining room follows the same line, modern, clean, and controlled, though it can feel slightly impersonal.
Pricing is where the balance shifts. The wine list is ambitious, but the mark-ups are on the high side, which weakens the overall value proposition.
A fishy experience
The restaurant carries strong credentials, but the experience does not fully support them. The setting is modern and comfortable, and the three-course menu is priced with some restraint.
The issue lies elsewhere. After the meal, two out of three guests at our table became ill, both having chosen the fish dish. That raises serious questions about kitchen control and food safety, which outweigh any positives.
Based on this visit, returning would not be an option. Caution is warranted.
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La Vieille Forge
1 rue des écoles, 68240 Kaysersberg
Dine:
Le Brendelstub
If you are looking for a nice dining experience in Riquewihr, Le Brendelstub is a must-visit restaurant. Our visit to this Winstub-style restaurant left me impressed.
Exceptional dining
Le Brendelstub sits in the centre of Riquewihr, in a historic building that has been reworked with a more contemporary, colourful design. The contrast is deliberate and largely successful, creating a setting that feels accessible rather than overly formal.
The interior holds up on closer inspection, though the lighting is too bright and takes away some of the atmosphere, particularly in the evening.
The kitchen stays close to Alsatian tradition. Dishes are prepared with a clear level of competence, without pushing beyond the expected.
Tagliata that will blow your mind
I had the pleasure of trying their Gravlax de Filet de Boeuf à Bois, which was the best tagliata I have ever had. The beef was perfectly marinated and cooked at 400°C in a wood-fired oven, served with arugula, parmesan, sun-dried tomatoes, pesto, and fries.
The Brendel family’s involvement is visible, though it is expressed more through consistency than personality. The kitchen relies on local produce and shows a solid understanding of regional pairings, particularly when it comes to wine.
Le Brendelstub delivers a reliable meal in a setting that reflects the village. It is a good option within a largely tourist-driven market.
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BRENDELSTUB
48 Rue du Général de Gaulle; 68340 Riquewihr
Dine:
La Winstub du Chambard
La Winstub du Chambard positions itself as a traditional Alsatian restaurant, and the setting supports that claim. The interior is warm and rustic, with a decor that feels traditional.
The experience is consistent with expectations. Classic dishes define the menu, and the atmosphere encourages a relaxed, social style of dining.
A meal that stood out
We opted for 'Le Menu du Terroir', and it was excellent value for money. The food was very good with flavors that were well-paired with local wines. Speaking of wines, the sommelier was fantastic, providing detailed explanations of each wine on the menu.
Olivier Nasti elevates Alsatian cuisine
We enjoyed La tarte à l’oignon à l’Alsacienne, the terrine de gibier maison et ses pickles, the Choucroute royale du Chambard (5 garnitures), and the Kougelhopf glacé au Marc de Gewurztraminer.
La Winstub positions itself within the traditional Alsatian segment, and delivers on that promise. Service is professional, maintaining a good balance without becoming overly familiar.
The interior is coherent with the concept, and the kitchen prepares regional dishes with confidence. The wine list is well aligned with the menu and shows a good understanding of local strengths.
It is a dependable address rather than a standout one, but for a straightforward, traditional experience, it is a valid choice.
photo: © Travel Magazine Belgium
La Winstub du Chambard
9 Rue du Général de Gaulle 13, 68240 Kaysersberg, France
Alsace is a practical choice for a short break in eastern France, particularly for travellers looking for a compact destination that combines culture, food and landscape. Located on the border with Germany, the region shows clear dual influences in its architecture, language and cuisine. Vineyards, half-timbered villages and a rolling landscape make it well suited to slow travel, without the need for long distances.
The key experiences are easy to define: the Unterlinden Museum in Colmar offers a structured overview of Alsace’s history, while a boat tour through the canals of Colmar provides a quieter perspective on the town’s architecture. These are relevant stops for a first visit, though not exclusive in a wider European context.
For accommodation, Hotel De La Couronne is a central option on the Alsace Wine Route. It works as a base for exploring nearby villages and vineyards, but room selection has a direct impact on the overall stay. The region’s compact geography remains a strength, allowing travellers to combine Colmar, Riquewihr and surrounding wine villages within a short itinerary.
Alsatian food is a central part of the experience. Traditional dishes such as choucroute garnie and tarte flambée define the local cuisine, offering a direct and regional style of cooking. Quality is generally consistent, though menus can become repetitive over several days.
In practical terms, Alsace is best suited to travellers looking for an accessible, well-structured destination with a clear identity. It delivers reliably on scenery, food and ease of travel, but offers limited variation for longer stays.